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New MM with stem problem

Discussion in 'Pipes' started by Pecci, Apr 27, 2011.

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  1. Pecci

    Pecci Active Member

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    My new Washington arrived with the stem-end (that goes in to the chamber) twisted to the side and about a 45 degree angle.

    Is this a problem? Would I be able to twist-out the sthe stem a re-glue it in the correct position? If so, could someone tell me how it should be done.

    Thanks again!
     


  2. Marc

    Marc Active Member

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    Is the hole in the cob drilled at an angle or is it just the shank inserted crooked? If just the shank, twist and remove, then re-glue using Elmer’s glue or simply call Missouri Meerschaum and they will make it right.
     
  3. Pecci

    Pecci Active Member

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    The shank is inserted crooked. I assume it's safe to twist it out, without further damage. Could the shank break at the glued area? And should I use Elmer's wood glue, instead of white?
     
  4. WyoBob

    WyoBob Member

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    If you do remove and re glue the shank, this would be a good opportunity to whittle, carve away, etc. the portion of the shank that extends into the bowl. I did this on a Pride that had a loose shank from the factory and it worked quite well. I used Elmer's wood glue and it's held up fine.

    WyoBob
     
  5. Marc

    Marc Active Member

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    I would not remove the end of the shank that extends into the bowl, as you smoke the cob and this shank end begins to char and burn down it becomes a covering for the bottom of the cob bowl protecting and strengthening it.
     
  6. WyoBob

    WyoBob Member

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    You have a possible point, Marc. I have one Pride that I've "mudded" and one Pride that I removed the stem, carved it down and re-glued. No mud. The re-glued, no mud pipe's bottom looks very much like my mudded pipes. I've not had any problems with the bottoms of any of my cobs getting "tender" but the only cobs I have that don't have a hard wood plug are a Legend, two Prides and a C.G. All of my other cobs are Diplomats and one natural Freehand that have the hardwood plug, some mudded and some, not.

    The Legend, one pride and the C.G. have been mudded.

    I've read about "soggy bottoms" and poking through bottoms but have not had any such problems. I've never had wet heels/dottle in any cobs and the ash easily taps out when I hit the bowl against my palm. I do dry most of my tobaccos before loading so maybe that's the secret.

    WyoBob
     
  7. Marc

    Marc Active Member

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    Whether a natural pith or hardwood bottom, I think the shank extension into the bowl is by design.
     
  8. Puff The Magic

    Puff The Magic Active Member

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    That's part of the design patent. The angle of the shank extension into the bowl places the draft hole in the optimal place when the bowl bottom gets burned/caked in. Wonderful design. Just smoke it and it'll come!

    I've taken many a new MM apart (removed the shank) and trimmed the upper "wings" off the shank extension with a pocket knife leaving the bottom flat portion of the shank extension alone. Then reglued. Bored (manual drill) out the shank........sometimes MM leaves some "tearout" in the bore. Then glue on the mortise retention ring/collar and set her away to dry.

    Least fussy

    Least costly

    Most durable (considering, hey, it's NOT morta!)

    Most "Friendly" smoke around...........the cob!

    Ed
    Puff
     
  9. Kiowapipe

    Kiowapipe Active Member

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    Where'd you order it from? If it were me I'd get on the phone or send an email with a pic. If whoever you bought it from is decent they'll just send you a new one that isn't screwed up. Then if you feel like it you can mod the one you have now and for the price of your labor have another new cob.
     
  10. Pecci

    Pecci Active Member

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    I got it from Aristocob. He's a great guy. He chose the best looking one of the lot for me, and must have missed the inside of the bowl. Exterior-wise, it looks like a high-end MM, so I'd like to keep it.

    Just to make sure, in regards to the stem removal ... is it just grab and twist, w/confidence.
     
  11. Pecci

    Pecci Active Member

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    I heated-up the pipe and tried twisting the shank, but couldn't do it. It didn't budge.

    Any ideas on a better way, would be welcome. I'm afraid that if I add any more torque, the corn +/or the pine may give before the glue does.
     
  12. Puff The Magic

    Puff The Magic Active Member

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    The specific instructions is to pull up on the shank towards the bowl. Sort of like you are pivoting the shank as if it were a blade on a pocket knife anob is the knife handle. Some glue joints are tough (more glue or just better glue-up). More than likely Aristocob was focused on the visuals rather than the functionality of the pipe as well......should have had both in mind.

    Ed
    Puff
     
  13. WillH

    WillH Active Member

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    Cobs are tough! If anything is gonna get ruined it'll be the shank. Personally, I'd stop and find a way to trim the end of the shank with it in place. I do it to all my cobs with a Dremel tool.

    Will
     
  14. Pecci

    Pecci Active Member

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    My thanks, to everyone. I got it.

    I went the hair drier way. After it really heated up, I turned it, instead of removing it. I hope it re-sets, otherwisw I will have to remove the stem and re-glue.
     
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